
Published
November 2011
Revised December 2011
Authored by Bryce Nesbitt,
Reviewpress Editor
Introduction
If a smoky fire
started in your garage, would you want an alarm to sound upstairs in your
bedroom? Most people would, yet the smoke detectors commonly stocked
in hardware and home stores can't do that.
This review covers
wireless connected smoke detectors, which can be used alone or in
combination with existing alarms. This guide covers all the
available options, and helps you to find a retailer who can supply
the units.
Why should I consider such units?
Fire escape times are very
short: the more notice you have the better. A 2005 study pegged
escape time in a modern home at three minutes (1).
After that time a fire is likely to “flash over” rendering the
house lethal. Quicker notice can save lives and reduce property
damage. A fire could smoulder for hours in part of the house, yet if you
don't hear the alarm you can't react.
How do these units work?
These alarms work
by sending radio signals. Generally you set all alarms in your home
to a common code. To test, press a button on one alarm, and verify
that all the alarms beep together. The process is fairly easy.
The models from Kidde work
much like older garage door openers. You flip each unit over and set
a code. All units with the same code operate together. A green
flashing light identifies the unit that started the alarm.
The
OneLink models from First Alert must be "paired", a
somewhat more involved process. You place two units next to each
other and make a series of button presses. Although nothing visible
has changed, the units will now operate together.
With OneLink voice models the room name is announced (e.g. “Evacuate! Fire detected in basement. Evacuate!”). On non-voice units a light indicates the source of the alarm.
The wireless models run through batteries considerably quicker than the best conventional smoke alarms. We calculated about a one year lifespan, based on laboratory tests.
Connected units can make false alarms considerably more annoying: and that can be a big problem. More than half (54%) of smoke alarm failures in real fires were caused by missing batteries 3. Nuisance alarms are a major cause of battery removal.
If you're willing to take on
the extra burden of battery replacement, connected alarms are worth a
look. If you have problems with false alarms, solve that problem
first.
What do I need for my home?
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Battery operated smoke detectors |
Replace two or more detectors. |
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Replace two or more detectors. |
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Hardwired conneted detectors |
Replace one of your wired detectors. Now you can add additional battery powered detectors in other rooms (e.g. a basement, outbuilding, garage, or utility room). |
| Wireless security system
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First explore your security vendor offers smoke/co detectors. This will avoid wireless interference problems, and also tie into any central monitoring system. |
| Hard wired security system.
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Install one wired unit to connect to the existing alarm. Now add additional battery powered units where needed. |
| New construction |
You should not be considering wireless models. |
The
following feature grid can help you find a model for your particular
situation.
If your alarms must wake children or elderly
persons, consider a talking model. Old people may have hearing loss
making it impossible to hear a high pitched horn. Studies suggest
that children are more likely to wake to a voice alarm. First Alert
makes a model (the ONELINK-C2) specifically marketed as more likely
to wake a child.
As of 2011, over half the US
states mandate carbon monoxide detector installation even in existing
homes. This may be your opportunity to add CO detection.
Ionization or Photoelectric?
Ionization type detectors are better at detecting fast moving fires. Photoelectric detectors are better for slow smoldering fires. Ideally you'd have both. Except in this category you can't: neither company makes both types. You can't do much about this other than to retain at least one non-connected alarm of the opposite type.
If
you have problems with false alarms, read up elsewhere on this topic.
Switching detector types may solve your problem and save your
ears.
Some dual sensor types exist which claim to be highly
resistant to false alarms. As of this writing they are not available
in a wireless connected model.
Wisdom
of the crowd
We've asked owners of these products to report
back their experiences:
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False Alarms & Cause |
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Review Section 2: The Details
Why are smoke alarms important?
You
have only three minutes to escape from an average home fire,
according to a 2005 study by the National Institute of Standards and
Technology.
In one-quarter of reported fires in smoke
alarm-equipped homes, the devices did not work. If all homes had
working smoke alarms, an estimated 890 lives could be saved
annually, or just under one-third the annual fire death toll
2.
Other
Characteristics to Consider
Smoke testing of these models is
out of the scope of our review. However, all the models meet
applicable standards. Good smoke testing reviews have appeared in
Australia-based Choice magazine, and New Zealand's Consumer
magazine.
Larger homes our outbuildings may present barriers
to wireless signals. The OneLink models are superior in this regard,
as the signal can "hop" from detector to detector until it
reaches all units.
Problems and Annoyances
Numerous
OneLink alarms manufactured before March 3rd 2006 were recalled, due
to a defect causing short battery life. Call First Alert customer
service for details on replacement options.
OneLink alarms can become
"unpaired". If a battery dies and is not replaced quickly
the unit can return to factory settings. For this reason it is
important to periodically test the alarms and actually verify each
one sounds. Note this can be tricky... with 4-5 alarms blaring in a
single house it can be devilishly hard to determine where the sound
is coming from.
Some users have reported interference
problems, particularly with Kidde models and wireless security
systems operating on the same frequency. For this reasons we
recommend using smoke alarms matched with your wireless security
system. Note that problems can even occur with your neighbor's
security system: wireless signals don't respect property boundaries.
The 915 Mhz radio band is "unlicensed", meaning anybody can
make products that operate in this band, and dozens of products now
exist. The OneLink models use a frequency hopping technique that
should result in good performance even in areas with lots of
interference.
ReviewPress Speaks: What we'd like to see
in this category
We'd like to see easier testing.
Pressing a test button while on a stepladder is hard enough without a
85 decibel horn blaring in your ear. None of the above models is
easy to test.
It can be difficult to determine if all units
are working, particularly with the OneLink models. We'd like to see
units that give a full talking status report at a reasonable (not ear
splitting) volume. An example test button might speak: "Four
units reported OK status. Unit three has battery at 66%. Unit four
has poor reception and should be moved".
These units should be smart
enough to detect a missing alarm. If you “paired” four alarms,
and a year later only three respond, that should be noted when you
test the alarms.
Kidde's own documentation reads "Kidde
strongly recommends that both ionization and photoelectric smoke
alarms be installed to help insure maximum detection of the various
types of fire that can occur within the home.". Yet Kidde does
not offer a photoelectric option. Similarly BRK Brands does not
offer photoelectric or combination OneLink models. This is
inexcusable on the part of both companies, and should be
remedied.
Keywords
interconnected, hard-wire,
wireless, smoke alarm, home safety, fire, alarm, ANSI/UL 217, ANSI/UL
2034, NFPA 72
1 Ahrens, M, April 2008, U.S.
Experience with Smoke Alarms and Other Fire Detection/Alarm
Equipment, National Fire Protection Association, Quincy, MA